Chasing Mavericks - not a total wipeout

The movie, Chasing Mavericks, is based on the true story of Jay Moriarty who gained notoriety by surfing Mavericks in Half Moon Bay at the age of 16.  Moriarty garnered numerous surfing awards before drowning in a diving accident a day shy of his 23rd birthday.  Maverick Waves are formed in the N. Pacific Ocean following a powerful storm and reach peaks over 25'.  Very few accomplished surfers will risk their lives attempting to ride a Maverick.  The film follows a young, adorable, indefatigable Jay, whose goal is to go where very few surfers have gone before.  He is mentored in his mission by his curmudgeon older neighbor, Frosty, (Gerard Butler) who is a veteran surfer & father of two.  Frosty begrudgingly and demandingly takes Jay under his wing.  Frosty's wife tells him, "some sons are born to you and some come to you."  The movie has some of the most magnificient surfing scenes on film but outside the water, the story runs dry.  While all the best moments in the film are in the water, those are so long my fingers began to prune.  Alas, I may be too long in the tooth and fall outside the targeted audience who will not only marvel at the surfing, they'll fall for the sappy love story and "father/son" relationships.