Thursday, July 24, 2014

Charles James BEYOND FASHION-Creative Designer Surpasses Couture

British fashion designer, Charles James (1906-78) is known "as America's 1st Couturier" which is paradoxical because, a. he's British and b. (I had never heard of him.)  Okay, my not knowing who Charles James was before this show @ the MET's Costume Instit. is irrelevant (this is not about the Melinda Project, still… )  What I did learn from his work as well as his quotes was enlightening & intoxicating.  "All creative work begins by doing something with the hands.  Creation is simply a problem and design is the way out."  James' designs are known for their architectural structure.  Most of  the ball gowns were so elaborate in form, they appeared impractical.   Would the women who wore them be able to do anything other than pose in them?  There are 2 separated galleries for the show making it a maze to transverse.  See the gallerie on the main floor which houses the designer's complex structured & detailed gown from the 40's-50's.  The 1st display has several muslin/black dresses that look like mockups.  They were paradigms for constructing his dresses (they were works in progress; like an artists' sketch.  Inside the dimly lit gallery, the ball gowns are spotlighted.  These gowns look more like costumes than haute couture.  I understood where McQueen, Westwood or Prada may have been influenced by James' designs.  There is an emerald green gown that would have fit in the emerald city.  The satin red dress would have made Scarlett O'Hara blsuh and the black/red velvet ball gown '46 could cast a spell on Angelina Jolie in Malificent.  My favorite ball gown was the Cloverleaf '53.   It was a stunning work of art.  Wearing it would seem sacrosanct.  According to James "Fashion, after all is magic and miracle."  I enjoyed the ballgown room.  It was magical but as fashion, not practical.  Nonetheless, the show was inspiring, "Forget all you know & learn something everyday."  

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